Adventure

Finding Johnson Falls: A BWCA Adventure

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Drive, paddle, portage, then hike, in that order, to Johnson Falls for a wildly freeing experience in the BWCA. Johnson Falls is an incredible addition to the wilderness experience that the BWCA offers. I love chasing waterfalls, but the added thrill to this falls is that there are no guard rails, no boardwalks, no crowds. A good state park waterfall is wonderful, but Johnson Falls is still wild. That’s hard to find these days.

Quick Details

Location: BWCA, west side of Pine Lake

Distance: Variable depending on entry point

Level: Strenuous

Time to go: Late May- September

Dog-friendly: Yes, adventure dogs in good condition.

Fees: BWCA Overnight Paddle Permit

Getting there

Transportation: A combination of vehicle, canoe, and on foot is necessary for this trek.

From East Bearskin: Paddle east from the entry point, portage to Alder (52 rods), then paddle to Canoe Lake portage (25 rods), paddle to Pine Lake portage, Portage to Pine (380 rods). The trail to the falls is at the end of portage to Pine Lake, it leads west along the shore and creek feeding into Pine.

From Clearwater: Paddle east from the entry point, portage to Caribou Lake (140 rods), paddle east to Pine Lake, portage to Pine (76 rods). Paddle across the short distance to the south side of the lake. Canoes may be stowed at the Portage to canoe lake or at a small canoe landing to the west of the portage. Both spots have ample space for canoes. Follow the trail leading west along the creek to the falls.

From Pine: Paddle to the western shore of McFarlane Lake, portage 8 rods to Pine Lake, paddle the long distance to the western edge of Pine Lake. Canoes may be stowed at the portage to Canoe Lake or at a small canoe landing to the west of the portage. Both spots have ample space for canoes. Follow the trail leading west along the creek to the falls.

Hiking to Johnson Falls

A canoe will only bring explorers so far in their quest to find Johnson Falls. On foot is the only way to finish the journey. The trail to Johnson Falls begins at the Pine Lake to Canoe Lake portage, on the Pine Lake side. The trail goes west along the creek. The terrain is rough, and filled with rocks, roots, fallen tree and debris. Be ready to climb over logs and watch your ankles over those gnarly root systems.

Second canoe landing along trail to Johnson Falls

Wildlife on Trail: Watch for wildlife sign. Moose, bobcat, beaver, bear, etc.. leave tracks along the way. There are some areas with thicker mud, these are prime locations to see who has been trapsing about on the Johnson Falls trail. We found the most adorable bobcat track and a whopper of a moose track.

What to bring

It’s always a good idea to have a daypack when going off on an excursion in the wilderness. Here are some suggested items to be sure to have along for a trip to Johnson Falls.

Good quality hiking shoes.
Map
Bug spray- seriously, they’re relentless.
Water & filter or water purifying tablets.
Rain Gear- watch the weather and be prepared.
First Aid Kit
Swim suit, towel, lifejacket.
Fishing gear.
Camera!

Swimming

Yes, you can swim in the waterfall! Being that the falls lies in the midst of the BWCA wilderness, there is significantly more freedom to explore than in state parks or more heavily trafficked/managed areas. On the flip side of the coin, swim at your own risk. There are no lifeguards, no cell service, no help for miles and hours. Be smart, make well thought out choices. Bring a life vest for kids or those who aren’t’ strong swimmers.

Fishing

My husband, Scott, thought he’d give fishing a try at the falls. We’re so glad he did. He caught a few bass in the pool at the falls, making the journey quite memorable for him. The pool beneath the falls was both wide enough and deep enough to accommodate swimming and fishing at the same time. Our daughter spotted a large unknown fish while exploring the pools edge. Scott wasn’t lucky enough to catch the monster, but we know he’s in there.

Bonus Fishing Spot: Cast your line out from the Pine Lake Portage, multiple fish were caught here while waiting for shorter legs to catch up.

Hiking Rankin Ridge in Wind Cave National Park, South Dakota

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This short hike brings visitors to the highest point in Wind Cave National Park and a historic fire tower. A great hike for all ages in this unique South Dakota National Park.

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Rankin Ridge is a spectacular spot to get an overlook at Wind Cave National Park. Being the highest point in the park, you can get a look for miles around. Even to Badlands National Park, on a good day.

Distance: 1 mile

Level: Easy, with some stairs.

Time to Go: Open year-round, summer is easiest, rock steps may be slippery or snow covered in winter months. Check trail conditions.

Dog Friendly: No, but there are two trails near the visitor’s center that are dog friendly. Prairie Vista Trail & Elk Mountain Campground Trail.

Fees: No entrance pass

Trail Head & Parking

From the visitor’s center, head north towards the campground, but stay right at the fork. You’ll come to a “T” in the road, go left. Then, take the first right onto Hwy 87. The road is winding and beautiful. There will be signs for Rankin Ridge, it’s on the right. RV’s and trailers are not allowed in the small parking area, but there is a pull off area by the turn toward Rankin Ridge trail head.

The Trail head is quite obvious with a sign, map, and the usual trail warnings.

Clockwise with Stairs

We chose to hike this trail clockwise and I’m glad we did. This trail makes more sense, based on the terrain, to hike it clockwise. So start out heading north on the left most trail.

Though this is considered an easy trail, there are a fair number of stone steps. They could be slick when wet, take care if it’s raining. The steps are also a main reason to hike this trail clockwise. There are no steps descending from the peak on the other side of the trail. I don’t know about you, but I’d rather climb steps than descend. Especially if they’re wet or I am carrying a child on my back.

The steps are not difficult, take your time and watch your step. Our two year old was able to tackle them just fine and he loved every bit of this hike.

Views

Don’t rush on this trail. It’s only a mile long, so take your time and appreciate the views along the way. The best views, in my opinion, were not at the highest point, but along the stairway leading up to it. There is so much to see, don’t speed through this one.

Fire Tower

The historic Fire Tower sits at the highest point in the park. On a clear day, hikers can see all the way to the Badlands National Park. On the day of our hike, there was just a little too much haze for us to see that far, but the view was still vast.

The Fire Tower is really neat and a great place to have a snack and water break. Unfortunately, the tower is closed to visitors. A bummer, we’ve climbed a few towers on our explorations and were disappointed to find that this was not possible here at Wind Cave. It was still a great place to see, though.

Lightning Warning: Watch the weather forecast and be aware of surroundings. This is the highest point in the park, meaning the most at risk for lightning strikes. Plan around thunderstorms and change plans to avoid being caught in a light storm on this trail.

Smooth Descent

After taking in the views and having a snack at the height of this trail. The rest is smooth sailing! The way down is a breeze. This trail is very well maintained with a gravel slope that leads back to the parking area. Great for little explorers to find their footing.

Bison Beds and Droppings

Watch for animal sign as you make your way back to the parking area. The presence of animals was much more prevalent on this side of the trail, making the descent just as exciting as the climb up.

Looking closely in the grass, it was evident that bison had bedded down in the area and, of course, our toddler found poop. Leave it to the boy to always find poop.

Wildlife Warning: Keep your distance from wildlife. Yes, it’s so cool to see them in their natural habitat. This is their home, we are guests and they don’t like to be disturbed. The NPS recommends keeping at least 25 yards away from wildlife, but strongly suggests farther from bison. Don’t pet the fluffy cows, they are dangerous!!

Open Hike

This park does allow “open hiking.” This means that hikers are not confined to stay on designated trails. Hikers are welcome to hike off trail and explore the park at their own risk. Be aware of surroundings, weather, and animals at all times. Be sure to bring a map, plenty of water, and know that there is likely no cell service.

Check out 5 Things to do at Wind Cave National Park for other ideas on exploring this unique national park.

November Hiking Tips in Minnesota

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Stay safe on trail with these November hiking tips for Minnesota. The rut is on!

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The leaves have changed and dropped, leaf peepers have gone home causing crowds to dwindle. It’s the perfect time to get on trail and watch the animals prepare for the winter months. November is hunting season here in Minnesota. Deer hunters have done their work creating game trails, working food plots, setting up stands and blinds. They’ve been waiting all year to get out in the stand, they are ready! And you should be too. Check out these November hiking tips to keep your hiking season going strong in a safe and considerate manner.

Know Before You Go

Deer hunting is all about conservation… and filling the freezer. With the conservation aspect in mind, there will be hunting permitted in some state parks around MN. Check out your destination prior to hitting the trail. Some parks have scheduled closures or limitations in the coming weeks for hunters to harvest the excess deer population.

MN State Park Hunting Seasons

Blaze Orange

Blaze orange is a hikers (and hunters) best friend in November. At a minimum, wear an orange hat, hot pink works too. Even better would be an orange vest. Obviously you don’t look like a deer walking in the woods, but safety first! Wearing orange will keep you visible to hunters and others in the park. If you’re trying to watch wildlife and are concerned about missing out by being too visible; don’t worry, deer can’t see this color. They can, however, see blue. Don’t wear blue if you’re trying to catch a glimpse of deer activity.

Dog Safety

I am very pro “Never Hike Alone” and try to take my dog along whenever and wherever I hike. Dog’s have been mistaken for small deer in the past. It is obvious in the picture below that my Xena looks like a deer, especially when she frolics through the woods. Her color is accurately named “fawn.” Whether your dog resembles a deer or not, be sure your furry hiking companion is wearing a vest or jacket of orange or pink.

Follow Signs

With the hunting seasons going on at the state parks, some parks are not closed but limiting areas to the public. Be sure to watch for signs and follow them to ensure the safety of both hunters and hikers. Check in at the park office before hitting the trails, they may have additional/updated information to make your hike a success.

Layers

This time of year we can have some pretty drastic temperature swings. It can be 65 degrees and sunny at the beginning of a hike and drop down to 30 degrees by sundown. Bring layers along and make sure to keep that orange hat on, even if it’s hot.

Sunset

Autumn is the time of year when our sunlight hours diminish and eventually lead to the darkest day of the year, the first day of winter. Check the sunset time on the day you plan to hike. On a clear night, expect visibility for about half an hour after the sun sets. Ensure you’ve planned ample time to complete your hike before sundown. Shooting time also ends 30 minutes after sunset, with the limited visibility exit the woods before dark.

Be Considerate of Hunters

Even if you’re not a hunter, keep in mind that the whole point of hunting in the parks is to promote a healthy population. When deer become overpopulated it can have a devastating effect on the overall health of the deer population, native plant life, and other animals in the area.

Bucks in Rut

If a deer spots you in the woods, it will likely take off. That being said, if a buck does not leave in your presence, Do Not approach it. It could be injured, nevertheless, the velvet is off the antlers and they are in rut. A buck, even a young buck, can be quite dangerous. Give them space and let them go about their natural business. Nobody needs to be gored in the name of curiosity.

Wounded or Down Deer

Spotted a wounded or down deer? If you come across hunters looking for their deer, point them in the direction that you saw the deer. The goal of a hunter is to harvest their animal as quickly and painlessly as they can. Being unable to find a wounded deer and end it’s suffering is a real blow to a hunter. Likewise, being unable to find a deer that is down is a waste. Be helpful and point them in the right direction.

Reporting a wounded animal to the DNR is another option. Keep in mind that this is a very busy time of year for the DNR as well and they do not have the manpower to respond to every wounded animal during hunting season.

Reporting to DNR

See hunters in a No Hunting Zone or outside of the hunting season?

Check the dates of the Zone you are in.
Some parks in MN have different dates for their designated hunting season; those parks will be closed or limited to the public on those dates.
Check with land owners to ensure they didn’t have hunters with permission.
Remember that bow hunters can hunt until the end of the year and muzzle loader season starts after shotgun season.
Do not approach poachers, this can be dangerous. Leave it to authorities.

If you are sure that you have a poacher on you hands: Report poachers to the DNR.

Enjoy the late autumn hiking season. The animals feel the change and pressure of the incoming cold. It’s the best time to catch wildlife preparing for winter. The deer are on the move, the squirrels are collecting nuts and seeds, some of the birds are heading south. It’s a much more active time of year in the woods than one would think. Simply sitting in the woods this time of year is great entertainment.

Minnesota State Park Leaf Peeping (Not on the North Shore)

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Lake Superior isn’t the only place to go ‘Leaf Peeping.’ Take a look down South! These parks can still scratch that autumn itch without the long drive north.

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Lake Superior isn’t the only place to go ‘Leaf Peeping.’ Take a look down South! These parks can still scratch that autumn itch without the long drive north. Grab your favorite autumn drink, hiking boots, and get exploring this fall.

Within 1 Hour of the Twin Cities

1. Wild River State Park: Stunning trails along the St. Croix river, through prairie grasses and forests of mixed tree species. Keep the camaras ready, while visiting this park. We happened to cross paths with deer, hawks, and eagles. For great river views, check out the Old Military Road Trail and Walter F. Mondale River Trail. While hiking along the rivers edge, keep an eye out for beavers and otters.

Estimated Peak: Late September/Early October

2. Interstate State Park: Dramatic cliffs, pot-holes, unique landscape, stunning leaves, and a plethora of activities. Can’t really miss with this park. While there is a lack of mileage for hiking (just 4 miles in the park) the trails make up for distance with rugged terrain. Rock climbing, boat tours, canoeing/kayaking, and overlooks are other ways to enjoying the leaves in this park.

Estimated Peak: Late September/Early October

**Pro-tip: Arrive early at this park. Due to it’s awesome features this park fills up fast, get an early start to avoid the crowds and land a parking space.

3. William O’Brian State Park: William O’Brian State Park is home to a variety of views. The 12 miles of hiking trails will take you to prairie overlooks, oak covered hills and to riverside scenery. Majority of the trails are not by the rivers edge. If hiking doesn’t quite sate that autumn wanderlust, hop in a canoe and paddle your way to satisfying autumn bliss. Watch for waterfowl and beavers along your way.

Estimated Peak: Late September/Early October

Riverside Trail is the best hike in the park. Check it out, the St. Croix is gorgeous!

4. Afton State Park: 20 miles of hiking trails cover prairie restoration, creeks, rivers edge, wooded hills and ravines. This park also has 5 miles of horse trails and 4 miles of paved biked trails. Along the waters edge, birdwatcher can glimpse the waterfowl and raptors.

Estimated Peak: Late September/Mid October

5. Lake Maria State Park: The previous 4 parks mentioned lie east of the Twin Cities. Lake Maria rests an hour to the west. This park has a different feel to it. More “off the beaten path”. The old growth forest changes the hue of the forest floor and adds a mystical edge to the air. The hiking trails lead to numerous small lakes and tranquil ponds giving chance to come across the rare Blanding’s Turtle. If you prefer birds to reptiles, then keep your sights on the 200+ birds species that live in or pass through the park.

Estimated Peak: Late September/Early October

Within 2 Hours of Twin Cities

1. Minneopa State Park: Minneopa is one of the few parks in Minnesota to host a bison herd. Catch these beauties in the autumn colors. Not only does Minneopa have majestic beasts, it is also home to a double waterfall. Be warned, the waterfall is more of a water trickle at this time of the year, but it is still beautiful! The parks only holds about 4.5 miles of hiking, but there is also the Bison Drive. This Bison Drive is a road that goes through the bison enclosure. Stay in your vehicle!!

Estimated Peak: Late September/Mid October

2. Whitewater State Park: For majestic views that compare to the North Shore, head to Whitewater. With drastic elevation changes on trail, you’ll catch some incredible overlooks. With this park’s 10 miles of hiking trials, you’ll pass along rivers edge, bluffs, and deep ravines. This is a park you don’t want to miss this fall and it doesn’t take a trip to the North Shore to see it.

Estimated Peak: Early-Mid October

3. Charles A. Lindbergh State Park: If you are looking to miss the crowds of the busier parks, check out this little park. The 7 miles of well maintained trails will lead you through a variety of colors, over streams, and the open space of a meadow. Up the road from the main park lies a little sections called Little Elk, this area holds a short trail along the Mississippi River.

Estimated Peak: Late September/Early October

4. Banning State Park: The beauty of this park is astonishing. Taking the Quarry loop to Hell’s Gate Trail passes along the Kettle River, passed the old ruins, and to a section of falls. The burnt orange and yellow leaves falling over the ruins and falls make for a picturesque scene. With 17 miles of trails and adventure, this has become one of my favorites.

Estimated Peak: Late September/Early October

5. St. Croix State Park: Riverside views in the fall can’t be beat. The place where two rivers converge is stunning. Take in the crisp air of autumn along the river hikes on the St. Croix and the Kettle Rivers. Adventure is not in short supply at St. Croix. This is a park I could hike again and again!

Estimated Peak: Early September/Early October

The North Shore isn’t the only gorgeous place in the state to see autumn’s glory. Get your hiking shoes and hit the trails before the autumns leaves decorate the forest floor.

Winter at Gooseberry Falls

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Gooseberry Falls, one of Minnesota’s top state parks to visit. It’s just as stunning in the winter as it is in the summer… sans the crowds.

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“Can we go to Gooseberry? How about Gooseberry? Gooseberry? I think Gooseberry sounds good. Lets do Gooseberry!”

These are the things that came out of my 10 year old daughter’s mouth this morning when I asked where she’d like to go on our annual winter trip. I tried suggesting places we haven’t been to yet, but she was so adamant about Gooseberry. She even suggested it while her girl scout troop was planning their upcoming spring trip. She’s obsessed! I guess we’ll do Gooseberry… Again. No complaints here!

For sure this is a park that you can visit during any season for really any length of time. It is one of our family’s most frequented parks. We stop during summer on our way up to or on the way back from the BWCA. Winter here is absolutely stunning and worth a trip of it’s own. It is one of my all time favorite winter parks. I will share with you the wonders of this truly unique winter oasis.

Quick Review: 8/10 I know I said that this is one of our favorite parks, but I am still docking it 2 points. One point for the crowds and one point for lack of seclusion. Yes, this park has a lot to offer in the way of sights and beauty, but you’ll likely have company in many spaces in the park. Even when you choose to camp at this park, it’s quite crowded at the campground.

Crowds… or Not

I’ll let you in a little secret here; I don’t like crowds. Well, maybe that’s not a secret… Or uncommon. Do you enjoy weaving through packs of people when you’re “enjoying” nature? Me neither, that’s not enjoying it at all. Gooseberry is a VERY popular state park in Minnesota. But most folks don’t venture out into the cold winter months to do their exploring. This is where we winter lovers rejoice.

Check Gooseberry Falls off the list during the winter to avoid those monstrous crowds in the summer months. Not only do you get the park to yourself, but the snow cover causes a hush over the woods. The snow mutes any noise that happens to be lingering from the few other visitors.

Hike

Winter at Gooseberry means wide open groomed trails mostly to yourself. You can walk a reasonable distance without seeing another visitor once away from the main falls. Some trails are designated for skiing, snowmobiling, and skate skiing. This does not mean they forgot about those who just want to take a stroll in their boots.

Fifth Falls Trail: From the visitors center, hikers and snowshoers can hike along the Fifth Falls Trail up to the Fifth Falls, then back on the other side of the Gooseberry River. The trail is roughly a 1.5 mile loop.

Superior Shores Hike: Once back to the main falls (the middle and lower falls area), hikers can add a 2 mile out and back hike to the shores of Lake Superior. It’s totally worth the hike along the river to the lake shore. The ice along lake superior is too impressive to miss.

Gitchi Gummi Trail: Like the Superior Shores hike, the Gitchi Gummi Trail loops down to the shoreline, but on the opposite side of Gooseberry River. The trail leads to an overlook and is about a 1.2 mile loop beginning just east of the middle and lower falls.

Photography

For wildlife photographers, this place is a real treat! Frozen shorelines, ice crusted falls, trickling streams emerging from their icy confinement, silent wildlife peering through the trees. So. Many. Shots.

The real beauty of Gooseberry in the winter for a photographer is the lack of crowds. Getting here early in the summer means fewer people, getting here early in the winter means NO people. Snapping a shot of these falls without people cluttering up your photo can take a lot of patience and work during the summer months. It’s a whole lot easier in winter’s bitter chill and so worth it for those priceless frozen photos.

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Visitor Center

After your chilly excursion, warm up by the fireplace in the spacious Gooseberry Visitor Center. There are restrooms, places to rest, snacks and items to purchase in the gift shop.

Dog Friendly Park

Dogs love adventure time! The ungroomed trails at Gooseberry are dog friendly. We are asked to stay off of the groomed ski trails, these are intended for cross country skiers. Dogs are also prohibited from entering the visitors center.

**Tip** Please remember to clean up after your pets and keep them on leash so we can all continue to enjoy bringing our furry friends along for the journey. Trail Etiquette for Dogs is very important in keeping our parks dog friendly.

So Much Adventure

While I really enjoy snowshoeing and skiing, during our trips to Gooseberry we have only boot hiked. Why have I not experience every activity availible at this park? I don’t know, I feel like I’m really missing out! Pick your favorite adventure, grab your gear and get going!

Snowshoeing: Snowshoeing at Gooseberry is welcome on ungroomed trails and off trail. The Fifth Falls Trail, the Gitchi Gummi Trail, and the trail to the shore of Lake Superior are all available for snowshoe enthusiasts; these are ungroomed trails. If you did not bring snowshoes, you can boot hike these trails as well.

**Tip** If you are exploring the area around the upper, middle, and lower falls, I recommend that you take your snowshoes off. There are areas of ice, pavement and stairs. The teeth of your snowshoes will surely be bent in your attempt to snowshoe on these areas.

Skiing: Cross country skiing trails are groomed and consist of 12 miles ranging between easy and moderate. There is also about a mile of skate-ski trail.

Snowmobiling: With the 20 miles of trails at Gooseberry, just 2 of them are available for snowmobiling. This trail connects to the North Shore State Trail. But if you are snowmobiling in, it’s worth the stop and walk to the falls. The winter falls is such an amazing sight to take in.

Fat Tire Bikes: These are not allowed on Gooseberry trails. It is, however, allowed at Split Rock just up the road. If you are into this sport, it might be worth the extra few minutes drive to Split Rock.

Trail Maps: There is a very clear map indicating where certain activities are allowed. You can pick them up at the visitors center or you can print one ahead of time from the DNR website. I like to have a game plan prior to arriving, it saves time and energy when you arrive at the park for your adventures. And having little ones along mean you have only a certain amount of time before they are done. For more on adventure with little ones read my 8 Tips for Day Hike Success with Little Adventurers post.

Neighboring Parks

One of the great perks about Gooseberry is that there are so many other parks in the area. This is especially nice if you enjoy winter sports that are not allowed or are limited in Gooseberry, such as fat tire biking and snowmobiling. Some close parks include:

Split Rock Lighthouse
Tettegouche
Temperance River
George Crosby Manitou
Cascade River
Jay Cooke

Lodging

Camping: Camping is available year round at Gooseberry but there are fewer options during the winter months. Only 3 sites remain open for the winter that are walk/ski in. The campground roads are not plowed. The showers and some flushable toilets close for the season. There are still vault toilets available in multiple locations.

Alternative Lodging: If winter camping does not interest you, there are plenty of cabins, hotels, motels, and bed & breakfasts in the Two Harbors area. When we make a winter trip to the North Shore, our go-to place to stay is the Inn on Gitchi Gummi. It’s right on the Scenic Route 61, north of Duluth. You’ll still have a 30 minute trek in the morning to get to Gooseberry but it’s worth that little bit for the fantastic service and hearty homemade breakfast.