Glittering lights and Cold nights make for a magical experience in the great white north of Minnesota. Pull on your boots and zip up your coats, Minnesota is lit up and ready to celebrate the Christmas season with spectacular lights displays and festive activities!
**Updated for 2024**
Bentleyville USA
Of course we’ve all heard of Bentleyville here in Minnesota. Many families make a yearly tradition of visiting the walk-through lights display in Bayfront Festival Park, Duluth. A great addition to a weekend getaway to Duluth.
When: November 23th to December 28th
Hours: Sun-Thurs. 5pm-9pm, Fri-Sat. 5pm-10pm
Location: 700 Railroad Street, Duluth, MN 55802
Admission: Free admission, $10 for parking
Highlights: (All Free) Marshmallow roasting station, visit/pictures with Santa, hot cocoa & coffee, Cookies and popcorn, complimentary strollers
**To beat the crowds, hit this event midweek.
Glensheen Candlelight Tours
Soak in all of the Christmas magic this historic estate has to offer on this self-guided Glensheen Candlelight Tour. This tour includes the lower level, 1st floor, and 2nd floor of the festive Christmas mansion.
When: Fri & Sat November 29-January 5th
Hours: 5pm-8pm (Tour Dates and Times vary)
Location: Glensheen Mansion, 3300 London Road, Duluth, MN 55804
Admission: Adults $25, Children (6-17) $13, Children under 6 are free
Highlights: Informative signs throughout tour, downloadable app for information on the tour, admission includes Spirit of the Lights outdoor exhibit on the Glensheen grounds
**Do not bring your own flashlights
Lake Superior Zoo Lights
Experience the Lake Superior Zoo‘s twinkling lights and displays. An event the kids are sure to enjoy.
When: Friday-Sunday Evenings until December 21st
Hours: 5pm-8pm
Location: 7120 Freemont Street, Duluth, MN 55807
Admission: $10 per person, free parking (Ages 2 & under are free)
Highlights: Free s’mores, GIANT inflatable display, Santa & Grinch visits, hot cocoa at the Safari Café
Minnesota Arboretum
The Winter Lights at the Minnesota Arboretum is a whimsical outdoor winter experience. The summer loving flower enthusiasts will enjoy seeing the arboretum in this new light.
When: November 21st to January 5th
Hours: Dates and hours vary with numerous events and specials, investigate further here.
Location: 3675 Arboretum Drive, Chaska, MN 55318
Admission: Regardless of membership, all visitors must have a Winter Lights ticket ($10 members, $25 non-members)
Highlights: S’mores kits available for purchase (includes 4 s’mores for $7), .75 mile stroll through visitor center grounds and gardens, warm up inside visitors center
Glow Holiday Festival
Venturing north isn’t the only way to get a full holiday experience. This massive display of lights will have your holiday spirit beaming! Now being held in the CHS Field in St. Paul, this display is bigger and better than ever.
When: November 21st to January 5th
Hours: Sun-Thurs 5pm-9pm (last entry time at 8pm), Fri-Sat 5pm-10pm
Location: CHS Field 360 N. Broadway Street, St. Paul, MN 55101
Highlights: Giant Slide (extra cost), S’mores package available for purchase, enchanted forest, penguin playground, interactive northern lights display, Trolly ride
Celebrate the Light of the World
‘Tis the season of giving and the Willmar Celebrate the Light of the World event is all about giving back to the community. The drive through Christmas display is free for all but there is an opportunity to give a gift to four non-profit organizations; Salvation Army, Kandiyohi County Food Shelf, Habitat for Humanity, and United Way.
When: November 25th to December 31st
Hours: 5pm-10pm
Location: Robbins Island Regional Park, 945 US Business 71, Willmar, MN 56201
Admission: Free Event, Donations accepted for 4 non-profit organizations
Highlights: Drive-through lights display (great for take out Dinner and a show, one of our family traditions)
Sam’s Christmas Village, WI
Hop over the border for a whimsical Christmas experience at the popular Sam’s Christmas Village in Somerset, Wisconsin.
When: Dec. 9th- Dec. 31st
Drive-Through Only Days: Mon. & Tues. Dec. 9th- December 10th ($15 per adult)
Hours: Sun-Thurs 5pm-9pm, Fri-Sat 5pm-10pm
Location: 710 Spring Street, Somerset, WI 54025
Admission: Adult $25, Child (3-10) $20, 2 & under are free, $10 Parking on-site (cash only for parking)
Highlights: 10 Million lights on display, Christmas Market Thurs-Sun nights, Visit Santa in Christmas Market, sledding hill, S’mores Cabins available for rent ($119+)
Cut the clutter and give a gift that will be useful and appreciated. The season of giving is such a wonderful time and seeing the look on your loved one’s face is a wonderful experience. But the aftermath of gifting can leave a chore of finding space for the gifts received, not that they aren’t appreciated, but we can skip this step with the gifts listed here.
Adventure Gifts
Memberships to the MN Wolf/Bear Center– Have a wolf or bear lover on your list? They’ll love being part of to the Wolf or Bear Center community in Ely, MN.
**Be Aware: The Bear Center is only open from the end of April to the end of October as the bears are taking their seasonal nap.
**Hours are limited during the winter months at the Wolf Center, but the wolves are most active during this time. Worth a visit!
MN State Parks Pass/Gift Card– The gift that gives all year-round! Endless adventure for the entire year at the 66 Minnesota State Parks.
National Parks Pass– Same goes for the Nationals Parks. A wonderful gift for those who travel far and wide, especially the snow-birds heading south.
Vertical Endeavors Rock Climbing Lessons/Pass– With 6 locations in Minnesota this pass can be the start of a new adventure or passion. Classes, gear, and memberships are available here.
Ziplining Tickets– For the thrill seeker, adventure awaits with locations across the state. Check height and weight restrictions prior to investing in this gift. Many parks in the state are closed during the winter, so this may be a gift redeemable in the spring.
Ski/Snowboard or Snowtubing Pass– Keep your outdoorsman busy all winter long with a pass to their favorite winter sports joint. For those who love winter but aren’t into flying down the hill on a board, try out snow tubing.
MN Arboretum Pass– For a more mellow crowd, a Minnesota Arboretum Pass is a great gift for those in the vicinity of the Twin Cities area. With each changing season, the arboretum if filled with a new beauty.
Knowledge Gaining Gifts
Outdoorsy Magazine Subscription– Yeah, yeah… I know, so much is read online. You’re reading this online right now… But your adventurer won’t always have wifi or cell service. Outdoors magazines are a great resource for learning new skills and about new adventures that you may not have thought of. Some examples of outdoors magazines include:
Adventure Book– Have an outdoorsman so into adventures that they read about adventures while they are between adventures? Get them a new book! Here are some ideas:
The Twenty-ninth Day by Alex Messenger (awesome!)
Call of the Wild by Jack London (classic)
Into the Wild by Jon Krakauer
Wild by Cheryl Strayed
A Walk in the Woods by Bill Bryson
Guide Book– A guide book to their favorite area or an area they’ve mentioned they’d like to explore. Even better, a guide book and map of their dream trip!
National Geographics Guide to the National Parks of the United States
Hiking Minnesota: A Guide to the State Greatest Hiking Adventures
Road Atlas– For the Road-tripper, an Atlas is a rather practical gift. Relying on GPS alone is unrealistic and frankly, dangerous.
Consumable Gifts
Outfitter Gift Card– The list of Outfitters in Minnesota is endless, surely your adventurer has mentioned a favorite or a most frequented outfitter. A gift card to this location will ensure that they can acquire the gear they need for their next excursion.
Cabela’s
Runnings
Sawtooth
Piragis Northwoods Company
… the list is endless.
Trail Snacks– Granola bars, power bars, trail mix, protein bites… find out your hikers favorite snacks for a trail snack basket.
Camp Desserts– There is a wide variety of freeze-dried or dehydrated food items on the market. Grab a couple of desserts for your favorite hiker. They’ll thank you later for a special treat after a strenuous hike. My daughters favorite so far has been a freeze-dried ice cream sandwich.
S’mores Basket– The s’more lover will be thrilled with a s’more basket! A variety of chocolates, grahams, and mallows with stylish roasting sticks… oh yes!
Hiking Socks– Lets face it, socks take a beating on the trail. I can’t tell you how many socks I’ve burned through while hiking. Holes, holes, and more holes. Quality boot socks is a gift that keeps the hiker on the trail.
Color Packets for the Campfire– This is a new discovery for our family. This past year we came upon color changing packets for campfires and a local outfitter sells pinecones that change the flame color as well. Great for older kids and adults!
First Aid Kit– Great for an accident prone outdoorsman or the one who ventures past cell service regions. A compact and stocked first aid kit complete with a First Aid Guide, is the gift of preparedness.
Whatever gift you choose for your adventurer they’ll be sure to appreciate it! Happy shopping!
The leaves have changed and dropped, leaf peepers have gone home causing crowds to dwindle. It’s the perfect time to get on trail and watch the animals prepare for the winter months. November is hunting season here in Minnesota. Deer hunters have done their work creating game trails, working food plots, setting up stands and blinds. They’ve been waiting all year to get out in the stand, they are ready! And you should be too. Check out these November hiking tips to keep your hiking season going strong in a safe and considerate manner.
Know Before You Go
Deer hunting is all about conservation… and filling the freezer. With the conservation aspect in mind, there will be hunting permitted in some state parks around MN. Check out your destination prior to hitting the trail. Some parks have scheduled closures or limitations in the coming weeks for hunters to harvest the excess deer population.
Blaze orange is a hikers (and hunters) best friend in November. At a minimum, wear an orange hat, hot pink works too. Even better would be an orange vest. Obviously you don’t look like a deer walking in the woods, but safety first! Wearing orange will keep you visible to hunters and others in the park. If you’re trying to watch wildlife and are concerned about missing out by being too visible; don’t worry, deer can’t see this color. They can, however, see blue. Don’t wear blue if you’re trying to catch a glimpse of deer activity.
Dog Safety
I am very pro “Never Hike Alone” and try to take my dog along whenever and wherever I hike. Dog’s have been mistaken for small deer in the past. It is obvious in the picture below that my Xena looks like a deer, especially when she frolics through the woods. Her color is accurately named “fawn.” Whether your dog resembles a deer or not, be sure your furry hiking companion is wearing a vest or jacket of orange or pink.
Follow Signs
With the hunting seasons going on at the state parks, some parks are not closed but limiting areas to the public. Be sure to watch for signs and follow them to ensure the safety of both hunters and hikers. Check in at the park office before hitting the trails, they may have additional/updated information to make your hike a success.
Layers
This time of year we can have some pretty drastic temperature swings. It can be 65 degrees and sunny at the beginning of a hike and drop down to 30 degrees by sundown. Bring layers along and make sure to keep that orange hat on, even if it’s hot.
Sunset
Autumn is the time of year when our sunlight hours diminish and eventually lead to the darkest day of the year, the first day of winter. Check the sunset time on the day you plan to hike. On a clear night, expect visibility for about half an hour after the sun sets. Ensure you’ve planned ample time to complete your hike before sundown. Shooting time also ends 30 minutes after sunset, with the limited visibility exit the woods before dark.
Be Considerate of Hunters
Even if you’re not a hunter, keep in mind that the whole point of hunting in the parks is to promote a healthy population. When deer become overpopulated it can have a devastating effect on the overall health of the deer population, native plant life, and other animals in the area.
Bucks in Rut
If a deer spots you in the woods, it will likely take off. That being said, if a buck does not leave in your presence, Do Not approach it. It could be injured, nevertheless, the velvet is off the antlers and they are in rut. A buck, even a young buck, can be quite dangerous. Give them space and let them go about their natural business. Nobody needs to be gored in the name of curiosity.
Wounded or Down Deer
Spotted a wounded or down deer? If you come across hunters looking for their deer, point them in the direction that you saw the deer. The goal of a hunter is to harvest their animal as quickly and painlessly as they can. Being unable to find a wounded deer and end it’s suffering is a real blow to a hunter. Likewise, being unable to find a deer that is down is a waste. Be helpful and point them in the right direction.
Reporting a wounded animal to the DNR is another option. Keep in mind that this is a very busy time of year for the DNR as well and they do not have the manpower to respond to every wounded animal during hunting season.
Reporting to DNR
See hunters in a No Hunting Zone or outside of the hunting season?
Check the dates of the Zone you are in.
Some parks in MN have different dates for their designated hunting season; those parks will be closed or limited to the public on those dates.
Check with land owners to ensure they didn’t have hunters with permission.
Remember that bow hunters can hunt until the end of the year and muzzle loader season starts after shotgun season.
Do not approach poachers, this can be dangerous. Leave it to authorities.
If you are sure that you have a poacher on you hands: Report poachers to the DNR.
Enjoy the late autumn hiking season. The animals feel the change and pressure of the incoming cold. It’s the best time to catch wildlife preparing for winter. The deer are on the move, the squirrels are collecting nuts and seeds, some of the birds are heading south. It’s a much more active time of year in the woods than one would think. Simply sitting in the woods this time of year is great entertainment.
Winter does not mark the end of the hiking season here in Minnesota. It marks the change of footwear in Minnesota. Break out the boots, snowshoes, skis, and hot chocolate! It’s winter and we are loving it!
I have put together a short list of State Parks that offer a variety of accommodations for your winter excursions. Try a few activities out, what have you got to lose? It’s a long winter, don’t waste it indoors.
Know Before You Go: Skiers over the age of 16 must have a Great Minnesota Ski Pass to ski on groomed state park and state forest trails in Minnesota. You can purchase your yearly pass($25) here or a daily pass($10) can be purchased in person. Why the fee? It helps pay for the cost of grooming trails.
1. Jay Cooke State Park
For those hard core skiers our there, here you go. This park is for you, with miles and miles of trails ranging from easy to difficult you’ll be in a cross country skiers paradise. For those wanting to keep it less intense, stick closer to the trails near the visitor center. The farther out you venture, the more extreme the trails get. Located just south of Duluth, it’s easy to add in during a weekend trip to the northern city.
Things to do & see:
Cross Country Ski- 20 to 32 miles groomed trails depending on snow conditions
A short hour northeast out of the metro lies a winter wonderland of a park. This park is very well kept during the winter months with many groomed trails for different winter sports. Hold onto your pups, there are many dogs that visit this park with their people. Being that this park is closer to the city, it is a popular day trip location.
Things to do & see:
Cross Country Skiing- 19 miles groomed
Back Country Skiing- 13 miles ungroomed
Skate Skiing- 6 miles groomed
Snowshoeing- 5 miles of trails & anywhere off trail
Hiking- Use snowshoe trails
Ski & Snowshoe Rentals
Camping/Camper Cabin
Warming House- Trail Center
St. Croix River Views
3. Lake Maria State Park
Just an hour northwest of the metro, this park is a great option for those wanting to take a daytrip for some winter fun. Lake Maria State Park usually has winter events such as a candlelit winter hike. Unfortunately, this year events have been canceled. We are a bit bummed, but there are plenty of winter adventures to be had by daylight.
Things to do & see:
Cross Country Ski- 6 miles groomed trails
Skate Ski- 2 miles groomed trail
Snowshoe- any ungroomed trail
Hike- any ungroomed trail
Pond & Lake Views
Warming House- Trail Center (may vary due to covid)
Secluded Camping/Walk-in Camper Cabins
4. Itasca State Park
This is on my list! We have visited Itasca State Park during the summer months and will do many more visits in the coming years, my parents have hunting land conveniently located 40 minutes from this park. I have yet to visit in the winter and am very eager to do so. I have looked into the activities and will have a hard time choosing which to do!
Minneopa State Park is just an hour and a half southeast of the Twin Cities. Not a far drive for what’s in store at this park. The trails are not as numerous as other parks. But you’ll have plenty of things to stop and see, if you arrive before dark that is. We had the pleasure of participating in a candle light hike at night. Though we were unable to see the bison in the dark, it was a near full moon and the frozen waterfalls were spectacular in the moonlight. With far fewer folks out in the dark, we were able to hear the trickle of water still flowing around the ice.
The north shore holds Gooseberry Falls, one of our family favorites. Currently our daughters all time favorite. Visiting this park during the winter months eliminates the excessive crowds at this very popular park and creates a more serene environment for exploring the beautiful area. For more on Gooseberry in the winter click here.
Things to do & see:
Hike- use snowshoe trails
Snowshoe- ungroomed trails & anywhere ungroomed
Cross Country Ski- 12 miles groomed
Snowmobile- 2 miles
Waterfall viewing
Lake Superior Shoreline
Warming House- Visitor Center
Camping
Bonus Park: Split Rock
After Visiting Gooseberry, travel up the road a few miles to check out Split Rock Lighthouse. Stop in for just a quick peak at the light house or enjoy 8 miles of fat tire biking or snowshoeing.
“Can we go to Gooseberry? How about Gooseberry? Gooseberry? I think Gooseberry sounds good. Lets do Gooseberry!”
These are the things that came out of my 10 year old daughter’s mouth this morning when I asked where she’d like to go on our annual winter trip. I tried suggesting places we haven’t been to yet, but she was so adamant about Gooseberry. She even suggested it while her girl scout troop was planning their upcoming spring trip. She’s obsessed! I guess we’ll do Gooseberry… Again. No complaints here!
For sure this is a park that you can visit during any season for really any length of time. It is one of our family’s most frequented parks. We stop during summer on our way up to or on the way back from the BWCA. Winter here is absolutely stunning and worth a trip of it’s own. It is one of my all time favorite winter parks. I will share with you the wonders of this truly unique winter oasis.
Quick Review: 8/10 I know I said that this is one of our favorite parks, but I am still docking it 2 points. One point for the crowds and one point for lack of seclusion. Yes, this park has a lot to offer in the way of sights and beauty, but you’ll likely have company in many spaces in the park. Even when you choose to camp at this park, it’s quite crowded at the campground.
Crowds… or Not
I’ll let you in a little secret here; I don’t like crowds. Well, maybe that’s not a secret… Or uncommon. Do you enjoy weaving through packs of people when you’re “enjoying” nature? Me neither, that’s not enjoying it at all. Gooseberry is a VERY popular state park in Minnesota. But most folks don’t venture out into the cold winter months to do their exploring. This is where we winter lovers rejoice.
Check Gooseberry Falls off the list during the winter to avoid those monstrous crowds in the summer months. Not only do you get the park to yourself, but the snow cover causes a hush over the woods. The snow mutes any noise that happens to be lingering from the few other visitors.
Hike
Winter at Gooseberry means wide open groomed trails mostly to yourself. You can walk a reasonable distance without seeing another visitor once away from the main falls. Some trails are designated for skiing, snowmobiling, and skate skiing. This does not mean they forgot about those who just want to take a stroll in their boots.
Fifth Falls Trail: From the visitors center, hikers and snowshoers can hike along the Fifth Falls Trail up to the Fifth Falls, then back on the other side of the Gooseberry River. The trail is roughly a 1.5 mile loop.
Superior Shores Hike: Once back to the main falls (the middle and lower falls area), hikers can add a 2 mile out and back hike to the shores of Lake Superior. It’s totally worth the hike along the river to the lake shore. The ice along lake superior is too impressive to miss.
Gitchi Gummi Trail: Like the Superior Shores hike, the Gitchi Gummi Trail loops down to the shoreline, but on the opposite side of Gooseberry River. The trail leads to an overlook and is about a 1.2 mile loop beginning just east of the middle and lower falls.
Photography
For wildlife photographers, this place is a real treat! Frozen shorelines, ice crusted falls, trickling streams emerging from their icy confinement, silent wildlife peering through the trees. So. Many. Shots.
The real beauty of Gooseberry in the winter for a photographer is the lack of crowds. Getting here early in the summer means fewer people, getting here early in the winter means NO people. Snapping a shot of these falls without people cluttering up your photo can take a lot of patience and work during the summer months. It’s a whole lot easier in winter’s bitter chill and so worth it for those priceless frozen photos.
After your chilly excursion, warm up by the fireplace in the spacious Gooseberry Visitor Center. There are restrooms, places to rest, snacks and items to purchase in the gift shop.
Dog Friendly Park
Dogs love adventure time! The ungroomed trails at Gooseberry are dog friendly. We are asked to stay off of the groomed ski trails, these are intended for cross country skiers. Dogs are also prohibited from entering the visitors center.
**Tip** Please remember to clean up after your pets and keep them on leash so we can all continue to enjoy bringing our furry friends along for the journey. Trail Etiquette for Dogs is very important in keeping our parks dog friendly.
So Much Adventure
While I really enjoy snowshoeing and skiing, during our trips to Gooseberry we have only boot hiked. Why have I not experience every activity availible at this park? I don’t know, I feel like I’m really missing out! Pick your favorite adventure, grab your gear and get going!
Snowshoeing: Snowshoeing at Gooseberry is welcome on ungroomed trails and off trail. The Fifth Falls Trail, the Gitchi Gummi Trail, and the trail to the shore of Lake Superior are all available for snowshoe enthusiasts; these are ungroomed trails. If you did not bring snowshoes, you can boot hike these trails as well.
**Tip** If you are exploring the area around the upper, middle, and lower falls, I recommend that you take your snowshoes off. There are areas of ice, pavement and stairs. The teeth of your snowshoes will surely be bent in your attempt to snowshoe on these areas.
Skiing: Cross country skiing trails are groomed and consist of 12 miles ranging between easy and moderate. There is also about a mile of skate-ski trail.
Snowmobiling: With the 20 miles of trails at Gooseberry, just 2 of them are available for snowmobiling. This trail connects to the North Shore State Trail. But if you are snowmobiling in, it’s worth the stop and walk to the falls. The winter falls is such an amazing sight to take in.
Fat Tire Bikes: These are not allowed on Gooseberry trails. It is, however, allowed at Split Rock just up the road. If you are into this sport, it might be worth the extra few minutes drive to Split Rock.
TrailMaps: There is a very clear map indicating where certain activities are allowed. You can pick them up at the visitors center or you can print one ahead of time from the DNR website. I like to have a game plan prior to arriving, it saves time and energy when you arrive at the park for your adventures. And having little ones along mean you have only a certain amount of time before they are done. For more on adventure with little ones read my 8 Tips for Day Hike Success with Little Adventurers post.
Neighboring Parks
One of the great perks about Gooseberry is that there are so many other parks in the area. This is especially nice if you enjoy winter sports that are not allowed or are limited in Gooseberry, such as fat tire biking and snowmobiling. Some close parks include:
Camping: Camping is available year round at Gooseberry but there are fewer options during the winter months. Only 3 sites remain open for the winter that are walk/ski in. The campground roads are not plowed. The showers and some flushable toilets close for the season. There are still vault toilets available in multiple locations.
Alternative Lodging: If winter camping does not interest you, there are plenty of cabins, hotels, motels, and bed & breakfasts in the Two Harbors area. When we make a winter trip to the North Shore, our go-to place to stay is the Inn on Gitchi Gummi. It’s right on the Scenic Route 61, north of Duluth. You’ll still have a 30 minute trek in the morning to get to Gooseberry but it’s worth that little bit for the fantastic service and hearty homemade breakfast.
The importance of “getting away from it all” as a couple is immense. It’s a really difficult thing to do in the go-go-go world we live in. Scott and I have been together for 13 years. Our first trip together to the Boundary Waters was when we were 16 years old, just babies! We’ve gone up multiple times with my family, we’ve gone up with our kids, but we had never had a trip to my favorite place just the two of us. It was long overdue!
Ranger Station
The Ranger Station for Entry Point 43, Bower Trout Lake, is the Gunflint District Ranger Station. You really can’t miss it as your enter Grand Marais on Hwy 61. It’s just off to the right before the mini golf place.
Our quiz was taken outside alongside another couple. The building was closed at the time of our trip due to covid-19. We had watched the short film before our previous trip this summer, this allowed us to bypass that tidbit. You are only required to watch it once a season. If you’ve watched the video in the past, you’ll find it has been updated. I actually missed the tradition of watching the old video on the tiny tv screen in the ranger station.
Our route got a little goofy at the beginning of our drive due to some construction. We had to bypass that and go a little bit passed our turn, but it was easy enough to circle back around. The road conditions passed the Gunflint Trail were actually quite good, I was impressed. I recall the sketchiness from when I was a kid. Do not rely on your phone GPS, you will loose signal somewhere along the Gunflint Trail, have a map with you and know your route before you go. I actually like to have printed out instructions along as well.
As you exit the Gunflint Ranger Station parking lot, head east on Route 61. Just a mile down the road, turn left onto 5th Ave W. The Gunflint Trail will be .7 miles down the road, turn left here. Stay on the Gunflint Trail for 16 miles. Next you’ll take a left onto South Brule Rd (325), follow this until you reach a T in the road. Go Left onto 152, the entry point will be half a mile after the turn. The sign is quite small, so go slow or you might miss it.
Parking
For only issuing one permit daily, this entry point has a generous parking area. We were able to back into a space with relative ease. There is no bathroom area (there usually aren’t). Folks can obtain a day use permit, there may be vehicles parked in the area for single day use.
Route
Scott and I chose to go farther in for this trip and take on more portages. We felt free to do so since it was just the two of us and no small children. We took advantage of our lightweight situation and went on an adventure!
Our route would take us from Bower Trout Lake into Marshall Lake, through Dugout and Skidway, up the South Brule River, and finally into Swan Lake. A total of 6 portages, 5 Lakes, and a river. Though there are longer and more treacherous routes, this was the first trip we had been able to take in a long time that was more than one lake in. I was excited!
Portage #1: The Launch
Do not be deceived! There is no view of the lake from the parking area, but you will get there. It’s a 72 rod portage to Bower Trout Lake, but it’s a beautiful portage at that. Depending on what time of year you go, we went in early August, there are groves of wild flowers. Raised planks have been installed on the trail to walk across as it is a more swampy area. The water was so low at the time of our travels that we did not have to worry about getting our feet wet right away.
Portage Tip: We spoke to some rangers on one of our excursions about footwear. This gal and her partner wore boots treated with mink oil, this made them waterproof. We usually wear our athletic water shoes, closed toe only. They look more like mesh tennis shoes. And we pack our dry shoes in our pack. This way you will have dry footwear when you reach your destination and don’t need to worry about trying to keep your feet dry.
Bower Trout Lake
This first sight of the BWCA is breathtaking. Soak it in before loading up the canoe, you’ve earned a moment to take in the scenery after that first portage. Seeing the high hills on the south side of the lake on that cool morning was a reminder of why this wilderness is my favorite place.
Bower Trout Lake has two campsites. If you are planning on staying on this lake there is a good chance that you will obtain a site quickly. This is a rather small lake that offers Walleye, Northern Pike, and Smallmouth Bass. We did not see any campers on this particular lake and kept that knowledge in our back pocket in case of there being no availability on Swan or Marshall.
We shared the lake with a pair of swans as we paddled our way across. They were neat to see and kept their distance. We joked that they were on the wrong lake.
Portage #2
The second portage on this journey is on the opposite end of Bower Trout Lake. It’s really a quick paddle away as Bower Trout is a small lake. There is a small inlet under some bushes from the South Brule River. The portage is farther than this point, though it is worth a quick look. The Portage will be very obvious, there is actually a dock. Not the usual primitive experience but when the water is high, I’ll bet that is appreciated. There are also planks to walk across, to get to more solid ground. This portage is 91 rods with some steeper areas, long but not too rough.
Marshall Lake
Marshall Lake is even smaller than Bower Trout, it is a very short paddle across to the next portage. Not much of a break from carrying gear. There is only one campsite available on Marshall Lake. In our case, it was taken, not that we planned to stay there but that eliminated the easiest backup plan. This lake offers Walleye, Northern Pike, and Smallmouth Bass.
Portage # 3
The portage from Marshall to Dugout was not as obvious as the previous portage with the lack of a dock, but it felt more natural. This particular portage was short and sweet at 28 rods. Really this portage brings you into the South Brule River that leads into Dugout Lake.
Dugout Lake
This was a very cool area to paddle through… or should I saw walk? We reached a point of shallow rocks and small rapids that required us to exit the canoe and guide it upstream. This was almost the most thrilling part of our journey to Swan Lake.
On our way out we watched a pair of paddlers try to maneuver their way without getting out, it was a mess to watch. Just get out, it’s easier, less noisy, and causes less damage to your canoe.
My pack mule.
Skidway Lake
Surprisingly there is no portage between Dugout and Skidway. There is, however, a narrowing of the river. Which brings us to the most thrilling part of our route; a small sand bar island in the middle of the stream. Here we found fresh moose tracks and clams that had been cracked and eaten. Obviously, this was a high trafficked area for multiple creatures. There are also multiple beaver lodges to check out. Stay alert, you don’t want to miss the chance to witness something amazing.
There was a spot along this stretch that at least one paddler needed to exit the canoe and guide it through more rough area. No matter, dive in!
Navigating the rocks.MOOSE!!!
Portage #4 & #5
The next two portages 35 and 40 rods. There are some steep areas, but this short distance makes it a breeze compared to the 91 rod portage near the beginning of the journey. There is quite a bit of muck at these next couple of portages. Thankfully, there is a fallen tree near one portage that can be used to avoid some of that mess at one spot.
Keep an eye out for animal sign. We found what we believed to be bear scat. Exciting! If you look through the trees, you’ll be able to see the rapids of the slim river.
Yes, I photographed poo.Look closely, there is hair chunks on the forest floor.
South Brule River
There is a small and oddly rectangular section of river that is paddled up the South Brule River. This leads you to the last portage to Swan Lake, yay! The bugs are little more viscous in this area due to more stagnant water. But overall they weren’t bad, thank you dry season.
Portage #6
This last portage brings you up the Swan Lake. The area at the end of the entry has a flat space to organize your gear before loading the canoe. It’s also a good opportunity to check out the map and decide where to search for a site first.
Entering Swan Lake
Immediately to your left as you exit the portage is a group of fallen trees over the river exiting Swan Lake. It’s a very unique scene. More than just a view, the sounds and smells of the crisp water flowing is peaceful. Take a moment to enjoy it and breath it in. Paddling right up to the fallen trees, you’ll see numerous fish swimming in the shelters created by the debris.
Campsites
Swan lake has 3 opportunities for campsites. We took the eastern most site. This site had something that we had yet to see in the BWCA; stairs. That’s right, there was a set of steps leading up to the campsite on a rock. What!? It was definitely a first. I thought it would take away from the wilderness experience, but after setting up camp, they grew on me. It was like sitting on our front step at our backcountry home while drinking tea at the end of the day.
So fancy!
The sites on this lake seemed quite large. There were two areas for tents at our campsite. Our dinky two person tent was dwarfed by the open space. The latrine was quite luxurious as well, it even came with a lid!
Fishing
We had rotten luck again, we entered on a cold front. This made for some rough fishing on our first fishing excursion, Scott caught one northern and I caught one smallmouth bass on our first night. It was great to be out in the canoe with no place to be. We were satisfied with our catch, we weren’t fishing for dinner anyway.
Day 2 of fishing wasn’t any better. We fought the wind for some time until we finally gave up and trolled while the wind pushed us down the shoreline. Eventually we found a little bay on the northwestern side of the lake, that was a small haven away from the wind. We caught one northern for the day. Dinner.
The loons on this lake were rather chatty, we loved listening to their eerie call in the evenings. We also happened upon a family of loons in the bay where we took shelter from the wind. They were quite entertaining to watch as the mother taught her young to fish.
Relax
Fishing, canoeing, exploring, daytrips, swimming, hiking, adventuring; all great fun! I’m up for any and all of it. But when you finally get a break in the action, and no kids tagging along, it’s like striking gold when you can sit down and read your favorite book.
I read the WHOLE book, cover to cover, in one B.W.C.A. weekend. Call of the Wild by Jack London is my favorite book, and I got to read the whole thing in my favorite place. Bring a hammock folks, you can do it too!
If reading is not your thing, find some other way to relax while you’re up there. Some say fishing is just as relaxing. If that’s you, go for it. Scott chilled in the hammock while I read. The point is, find some time to breath and embrace the time that you have there. You’ll want to go back home feeling refreshed, not like you need a vacation from your vacation.
Solitude
Swan lake is farther in than we’ve traveled for quite a while. This offered us a more secluded oasis. We shared the lake with a family for one night and after that we had the lake to ourselves. That time alone was so needed, I really do prefer my solitude. The farther in you go, the fewer people you will see. In some areas it’s quite noticeable, especially when you start to see more wildlife and the squirrels aren’t as friendly.
Time Together
Like I said at the beginning of this post, it was the first time that Scott and myself went on a camping trip just the two of us. I have to admit, it felt a little weird sometimes. We weren’t chasing any toddlers or rushing anyone to activities. So we could actually talk to each other. Or NOT talk to one another and just be in each other’s company without words, silence is a treasure when you have kids.
What separates a couples trip in the Boundary Waters from any other couple’s trip is that you are not distracted by things going on around you. There isn’t some show that you need to make it to by x-o’clock, you aren’t meeting anyone at a certain time, there is no itinerary. It’s just you and you’re favorite person in the most serene place on earth.
All in all, Swan Lake was absolutely worth the trek in. It offered solitude, beautiful scenes, a great campsite, wildlife encounters and time together. I sure missed my kids, but having that time together alone in the woods was much needed! If you have the chance to make it out there with your significant other, do it! You’ll never forget the experience.
A lightly trafficked park offering a grand overlook, hiking trails, wildlife and a lake full of adventure. Check out Sibley State Park for a western Minnesota adventure!
This park is located out just outside of New London Minnesota. It’s not a highly trafficked park. We hiked on a Wednesday and were at the park for about 2 hours before seeing anyone else on the trail. A great place to hike if you are gearing up/training for a longer more rigorous hike, which is exactly what I’m doing with my 9 year old daughter. I highly recommend the Mount Tom Trail, it has a lot more than I expected from this trail.
Quick Review: 7/10 Great scenery and overlooks, trails are maintained fairly well, one larger closure on the main trail, detour was not very scenic. The Mount Tom Trail is considered moderate and for good reason.
Mount Tom Trail
We took the Mount Tom Trail. Our trek started at the trail center(which was closed for construction). This trail is about 4 miles of hills, overlooks, grasslands, and a lakeview. With the exception of the very beginning, the trails are well marked. We took the wrong path for about half a mile, that didn’t take long to sort out. There are maps posted in several places, we used the Alltrails app and recorded our hike. It took us 3 hours and 11 minutes total, 2 hours and 25 minutes of actual moving time. With the little ones along we took a few breaks and had a picnic at Mount Tom.
Hills
Holy hills Batman! I’ll be honest with you… I was expecting grasslands. You know, prairie. This was western Minnesota, it’s farms and grasslands out there. We actually happened upon a map that shows the different regions in Minnesota. It was interesting to see that this park is still in the deciduous forest region. This was the most hilly hike that I had done in a while. The grade was quite steep in a few areas. There are logs and rocks going across the trail to prevent erosion and acted as stairs. I do not recommend bringing a stroller on this trail. I did bring one, we had an extra munchkin along for this hike. Sandy, my 9 year old daughter, and I completed this hike along with a one and half year old and a 3 year old. I had my child carrier on my back and pushed the stroller. I felt like super mom on this hill riddled moderate hike.
Overlooks
Yes, the hills are wonderfully exhausting. But you can celebrate your triumph with an amazing view from the top. Even before you reach Mt. Tom, you can see over the treetops. We pulled out the binoculars to have a good look around, it was quite cool.
Mount Tom
You have a couple of options for viewing the Mount Tom Monument. We did the Mount Tom Trial, which brought us to a small parking lot with a restroom(yay!). So obviously, you can drive right to the head of the short trail to the Mount Tom Monument. It is paved and wheelchair/stroller accessible. If you’re not up for a hike in the woods, you can still enjoy a nice view. There is a set of stairs to climb to the top of the monument to truly gain the best vantage point. You can see all the way to Wilmar from the top. It has a sturdy railing, with small space in between the slats. I was confident in it enough that I let Killian climb up on his own, he was quite proud of himself.
Lake Andrew
We continued the Mount Tom Trail to Little Mount Tom, it had a cute little view. The climb up to it was really neat though. At this turning point there are signs to follow for Lake Andrew. We only got a quick glimpse of the lake. This was very disappointing for Sandy, she loves the water and any chance to be near it.
Trail Closures
This was quite a bummer. The trail is disrupted by a closure. At first glance it didn’t look like to much of it was closed. But when we aske a park ranger where we can get back on the trail, they informed us that the rest of the trail to the trail center was closed. This was such a let down. We completed the trail as much as was possible at the time. Hopefully it doesn’t stay closed for too long.
Other Park Activities
The hiking was great at this park, it’s absolutely beautiful! But the hiking isn’t the only activity available at this park and I look forward to taking advantage of what this park has to offer during different seasons.
Summer:
Camping (year-round)
Hiking (18 miles)
Fishing
Horseback Riding (7 miles)
Paved Bike Trail (2 miles)
Winter:
Cross Country Skiing (8 miles)
Skate Skiing (2.5 miles)
Snowshoeing
Snowmobiling (6 miles)
Ice Fishing on Lake Andrew (Crappies)
Whatever your favorite outdoor activity is, you’ll find something to enjoy at this park. Have you been to Sibley State Park? What was your favorite thing about it?
Not every trip goes as planned. Our stay at Tettegouche was not planned at all. Our original plan was to camp in the Boundary Waters, but things went awry. Sometimes improvising is your only option.
Pack the Rogue while Scott finishes some last minute work
Leave midmorning and arrive at BWCA Entry point Larch Creek by 3pm
Set up camp and have s’mores as a treat for a hard day’s travel
Relax in camping bliss until noon on Sunday.
Easy day, simple trip. Right?
WHAT ACTUALLY HAPPENED
Friday Morning
Scott leaves to take care of some last minute work for a customer. Sandy and I get to work packing up the Rogue and loading the canoe. We ladies have everything ready to roll when Scott returns. All according to plan.
We hit the road feeling great about our exciting weekend ahead. As we drive along, I notice that the vehicle is giving a jerk every now and then when accelerating. We noticed this in Mora, Minnesota. We brush it off, knowing that the vehicle has been driven pretty hard and might just be showing her wear and tear. **Note- We should have stopped here.
Tobies!! This is one of our northern trip traditions. We always plan a stop at Tobies in Hinckley for an amazingly gooey caramel roll. Hinckley is a good spot for a potty break and to stretch your legs, too.
We fill up the tank and soldier on. Duluth at last! As we approach the giant hill that brings you up over Duluth, the car starts to struggle more. Huh… That’s not good. Scott is looking more concerned at this point, the decent into Duluth is smoother. And the Rogue hasn’t died on us yet. We start discussing what could be wrong and end up pulling off to the side of the road just north of Duluth. We smell something goofy, and aren’t entirely sure what it could be. We are no longer making good time and we have to keep moving if we are going to make it to our entry point on time. **Note- We should have stopped here.
Onward… I guess. Once we reach Two Harbors we are in rough shape. I am trying to keep the vehicle moving, we are getting so close to our destination. All I have in my mind is just to get there. I am longing so badly to be back in those serene woods and hear the rhythmic splash of my paddle against the water. **Note- We should have stopped here.
We make a stop to get something to eat in Two Harbors. Culvers was the most convenient and quick meal as we hurry along. As we load back into the Rogue we spot something that really grinds our gears. A little, rusted out, beaten down, ancient white car loaded up with a canoe and an obscene amount of gear has just been filled up at the gas pump and is headed off down the road with no problem at all. WHAT?! How is that thing even running without the gear? And our sporty SUV is struggling to make it along. Ridiculous.
Anyhow, we carry on. But just barely. Silver Bay is where we finally accept defeat. It seems that our circumstances are just to great to overcome. The Rogue is not going to make it there. We are not going to see those pristine waters. This is not the trip we were hoping for… **Note- We stopped here. Ugh. 3.75 hours from home.
Hurray for technology!! I hop on my phone call the Tofte Ranger Station to inform them that we will not be making it and cancel our reservation. Next, I search on that nifty Google machine for the nearest camping options. BAM! Tettegouche it is, I give them a call. They have just one campsite left, we’ll take it!… If I can get the rogue started again. Thankfully we do, but we can no longer get the Rogue to go past 40mph. Other drivers are obviously getting upset. We creep into Tettegouche State Park, it is a battle to get up the hills and finally into a parking space at our makeshift campsite.
Scott searches for an auto body shop and makes arrangements for the Rogue to be towed away. Meanwhile, I break the news to Sandy that we will not be making it to the BWCA this time. But we look on the bright side, at least we get to camp at a new place and see something different. We get to work on setting up camp with lifted spirits. That’s my girl!
Scott managed to find us a place to have the vehicle towed to. They even let us use a car to get back to our campsite. But first, dinner.
Another Boundary Waters Trip tradition that cannot be ignored. On our BWCA trips we usually stop at Northwoods Family Grille, formerly known as the Northwood’s Café. My family has been stopping at this same restaurant for breakfast before BWCA entry since I was a kid. Great food and a welcoming atmosphere. Though Sandy enjoyed the S’mores French Toast it was a little too sweet for me, but my mom loves their biscuits and gravy.
After dinner we took the little borrowed car back to camp. The three of us made the best of it, our goal was to bring Sandy on a camping trip. And that we did. We played cards in our tent until we were playing by lantern light and could barely hold our heads up.
In the morning, we made ourselves some oatmeal and hot chocolate with our new camping gear that we were supposed to tryout that weekend. It worked great! Sandy was very excited to hear that Grandma and Grandpa were coming to spend the day with us. Surprise!
Scott and I had made a couple of calls to family. My parents picked up a trailer from Scott’s dad and made the drive up to rescue us. As it turns out, the transmission in the Rogue burned out. I was unaware that I was driving with the vehicle in overdrive THE WHOLE WAY UP. Did you know there is a button for that? I must have bumped it at some point. Honestly, I still don’t know where that button is. That was a $3000 mistake. Whoops. Don’t do that.
We are very thankful to have the kind of family that will drop their Saturday plans to make a 6 hour drive to rescue their kid and her family. Again, we made the best of the situation and it turned into a neat visit at Tettegouche State Park.
While we waited for our heroes to arrive, we packed up our gear and hit the trails. We got a map at the visitors center and decided to go exploring some falls. Sandy was very proud to lead the way. The trails are well maintained and some would really be acceptable for a stroller. We did happen upon a set of stairs that was rather long and steep, but it lead to an area of the Baptism River that we were able to jump on rocks in.
Once my folks had arrived, we explored in a different direction. Not too far from the visitors center is a trail that leads down to Lake Superior. This was where the Baptism River enters Lake Superior. It was a perfect place to skip rocks and hunt for crayfish. We had a blast in this spot.
Greatest Parents of All Time
The coolest thing about Tettegouche, in my opinion, were the trees. The root systems were so unique. Watch your step! It made for some great photo opportunities too.
This is one of our most interesting and memorable trips. Not because we were going somewhere grand or because it was the most perfect trip. It was the most memorable because it wasn’t the perfect trip and we learned the most from it. Sure, at the time we were very frustrated and scrambled to figure out what to do. But we know now that we can handle that kind of situation when our plans go awry.
Lessons Learned
Take the most capable vehicle you own & make sure it can handle the trip
Don’t put it in overdrive if it isn’t necessary; $3000 people, yikes
Be thankful for your rescuers
Even when things turn sour, you can still salvage a trip
Some of the best memories come from mistakes made
Even on an accidental trip, you can still give your kids a great weekend full of adventure
Share your trip mishap and the lessons learned, I’d love to hear it!
